Nevada's Pioneer Territory just may be the last place where visitors can find the true spirit of the Old West. The Pioneer Territory covers South-Central Nevada, a part of the state filled with historic mining towns, vast scenic vistas, and geologic wonderlands. Its natural attractions range from Death Valley National Park to Devil's Hole, home of the endangered pupfish. Perhaps no part of Nevada offers as many examples of the peculiar boom-and-bust nature of 19th and early 20th century mining camps as does the Pioneer Territory. Dozens of half-forgotten communities with names like Gold Point, Belmont, Manhattan and Hot Creek dot the landscape. Sometimes, only a handful of abandoned buildings and foundations mark the places where a mining metropolis once thrived. But the ghosts are worth visiting.
Pioneer Territory's wide-open spaces and uncrowded mountain ranges offer plenty of recreational options. In recent years, mountain biking has become a popular pastime in the Toiyabe and Toquima ranges of Central Nevada. Watch wild horses, burros, antelope, deer and elk roam freely as you pedal over summits or coast into vast open basins and valleys.
A cherished aspect of the Pioneer Territory is the family ranches that have operated for more than a century and serve as reminders of the traditional Western ranch lifestyle. Places like the Smith and Mason valleys in the northwestern part of Pioneer Territory are still authentic cattle country, filled with grazing livestock and fields of alfalfa hay. The picturesque, rural town of Yerington, in the heart of the Mason Valley, has retained its small-town ambiance while offering famous Nevada fun in its friendly, local casinos. Visitors also can enjoy a round of golf, or try bird-watching at the Mason Valley Wildlife Refuge. The Lyon County Museum is filled with fascinating exhibits describing the history of the region. North of Yerington is Fort Churchill State Historic Park, a Civil War-era fort that was once a Pony Express station. Built on a flat above the Carson River, it offers shaded camping and picnicking.
The Walker River, which flows through the Mason Valley, winds its way south to Walker Lake, a remnant of a giant, prehistoric inland sea that once covered parts of Nevada, Utah and California. The scenic lake is popular for boating, water-skiing, and fishing and bird-watching. The north end of the lake, including the small town of Schurz, is the ancestral home of the Walker Lake Paiute tribe. South of Walker Lake is the community of Hawthorne, a favorite rest and recreation stop for travelers on US Highway 95, the road between Las Vegas and Reno. Hawthorne is home of the Mineral County Museum and one of rural Nevada's most picturesque golf courses. The town is also less than an hour from a number of historic ghost town sites, such as Candelaria and Marietta, as well as magnificent natural areas like Mono Lake.
Pioneer Territory's Berlin-Ichthyosaur Park, located 18 miles east of the tiny town of Gabbs, is a turn-of-the-century mining camp maintained in a state of "arrested decay". Guided tours of the town's historic buildings are offered in the summer months. The park includes an enclosed archaeological dig site containing the fossilized remains of three dozen ichthyosaurs. These giant fish dinosaurs, some of which grew to more than 60 feet in length, were prehistoric, whale-like creatures that swam the seas 90 million to 240 million years ago.
The mining town of Tonopah is perched on a wind-swept mountain as the junctions of US Highways 95 and 6. Founded in 1900, Tonopah became one of Nevada's most important mining towns, producing extraordinary amounts of silver. Visitors also can learn more about the region's mining history at the Tonopah Mining Park and Central Nevada Museum.
Forty-five miles east of Tonopah is the picturesque ghost town of Belmont. The site includes the Belmont Courthouse, which was used between 1876 and 1905. The Nevada Division of State Parks offers courthouse tours during the first weekend of each month in the summer (June-August).
South of Tonopah is Goldfield, once Nevada's largest city with a population of nearly 20.000. Today, it has a few hundred residents. The Goldfield Hotel, now closed, was once one of the most luxurious hotels between Kansas City and San Francisco.
Next, motorists will discover the town of Beatty, which is the gateway to Death Valley National Park. Beatty offers several friendly, small casinos and a handful of RV parks. Beatty is also a few miles east of Rhyolite, one of the state's most photographed ghost towns.
The Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge, located 58 miles south of Beatty, is a wetland oasis that is home to several endangered species including the Devil's Whole pupfish. Nearby Death Valley National Park offers a variety of fascinating natural and manmade attractions including the Ubehebe Crater, Zabriskie Point, Scotty's Castle, and the Furnace Creek Resort.
Southwest of Beatty is Pahrump, which is known for its beautiful golf courses and as the home of the Pahrump Valley Vineyards, Nevada's only operating winery. Stop by for a taste of "Charleston White" or "Desert Blush".
In the center of Pioneer Territory is State Route 375, Nevada's Extraterrestrial Highway. The desolation of the area and the road's proximity to an alleged top-secret military base that is said to be dedicated to the study of extraterrestrials has made the route a favorite among UFO spotters. The small town of Rachel provides traveler services and serves as headquarters for UFO hunters and, of course, alien-related souvenirs. Heading east, the ET Highway joins US Highway 93, the road through Eastern Nevada. Caliente is a quiet, small railroad town with an impressive two-story; mission-style depot built in 1923. Caliente's Boxcar Museum, adjacent to the depot, details the area's railroad heritage.
Immediately south of Caliente is Rainbow Canyon, a beautiful scenic drive that is highlighted by prehistoric petro glyphs and interesting geologic features.
Cathedral Gorge State Park, 15 miles north of Caliente, is a fascinating geological site, created by erosion that is filled with gothic-looking clay spires - hence the name - and cliffs. Camping and picnic sites can be found at the park. A new state parks visitor center at the entrance to the park offers information on all state parks in Eastern Nevada.
In the 1860s and '70s, the nearby town of Pioche was one of Eastern Nevada's most active mining districts. Today, while the mines have all been closed for a long time, the town brims with 19th century charm. The "Million Dollar Courthouse" is the town's main historic attraction. Built in 1872, the courthouse was so named because corrupt government officials kept refinancing its original $26.000 price until it ended up costing nearly $1 million.
If you head back south on US Highway 93, you'll encounter the Pahranagat Lakes Wildlife Refuge, 85 miles south of Pioche. There you can find 100-year-old cottonwood trees lining the Upper and Lower Pahranagat Lakes. In addition to being popular with bird-watchers, the refuge is a perfect spot for a roadside picnic or an afternoon of fishing.
In Nevada's Pioneer Territory, visitors can relive an earlier era, when gold and silver mining and cattle ranching ruled this unique and historic land.
So get out there and explore.
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